Tag: travel

Tanzania 2026 Safari

Alchemy is mixing essential elements to create a superior form – gold.  My 2026 FAME Safari was golden.  The blend of adventure, weather, wild animals, lodges, guides, food, FAME and a splendid group of personalities was an alchemist’s dream. 

THE PERSONALITIES

All but two, were virgin safari-ans.  This gave me the opportunity to see everything with fresh eyes.  After 9 years of safaris, this was a gift.  It was watching their eyes light up at the first giraffe sighting or the chatter at the end of a lion-filled day.

Each would tell you about the months of me constantly saying “you are going to love…..” as people committed to join the trip.   From a distance I could see how their personalities and values would create the kind of energy that makes, not just a trip, but a shared experience.

ANDY AND PAUL

More than 30 years ago we were grad school friends and since have built relationships of deep honesty and unconditional love.  They arrived early to learn more about my work at the hospital and the children’s village.  Collected after a night at the Kia Lodge they did the 3 plus hour ride to Karatu.  Deposited at Martina’s, next door to Annie, (our super operator and good friend – more later) they sufficiently charmed her over drinks and we headed to a nice dinner at the very delightful Martina’s.

Friday was an early morning journey to the Rift Valley Children’s Village via the Tanzania Massage Road.  They observed my morning session with senior staff  (“Oh, that is what Diane does?”), had a fabulous lunch, got a tour and history of the village and then headed back down the bumpy road to a food truck party at FAME.

A Saturday morning walk up to FAME and we turned around for the 3 mile walk to lunch and a taste of Karatu, a bijagi ride home, finishing with another great Martina’s dinner.  Sunday, Annie and Hassan collected us for the 4 hour drive to Rivertrees lodge and arrival of our fellow safarians!

AMSTERDAM ADDITIONS

Due to the bombing in Iran, flights were juggled and all arrived in Amsterdam to board the JRO flight together.  The final blending of personalities happened when the jet lagged group was welcomed at Rivertrees by our little group.

The jet lagers were 5 super women and the cute couple, from my Saturday morning hiking group in MN, Bill (Andy’s grade school friend who I met last year in France), and Matt and Susie (childhood friends of Kim, one of the super women).

SMITA AND MUKUND

Unapologetically delighted by everything, they were the last to sign up but licked up every ounce of adventure.  When Mukund retired he asked my advice and I said “turn off the NO button”.  Together they have embraced the concept fully!

LORI

Although several people had a day or two of stomach challenge, Lori was next level.  She can now describe first-hand FAME’s patient centered care, from a late night visit to ER and an overnight stay in the medical ward.  She didn’t take long to get back on track as the wonderful traveling companion from our Namibia elephant trip – always up for adventure.

JEAN

A couple of weeks before I left in January, Jean called to tell me that she needs hip surgery.  Should she cancel?  Even knowing she would find the experience unforgettable, I didn’t want to put pressure on her to come.  So I was pleased that she did the entire trip with a cane, pain meds, and no complaining.   My only concern was that she was at Lori’s side during her FAME stay, fell in love with the empty bed they offered her and threatened to take it home.  Knowing the size of her luggage mitigated my concern!

KIM

Lori, Jean and Kim were our triplets, sharing a space at each location and the care of Lori at FAME. I observed Kim’s impressive organizational DNA kick in at the ER. As always, she was beautifully put together, even at a late night ER visit. As an adventure junkie, always on the hunt for surprise, I can sometimes create stress and Kim was my most likely victim.  But she found joy, sometimes delayed, in all that we did.  And her hunt for the perfect tanzanite was finally rewarded in Zanzibar.

SUSIE AND MATT

Kim’s high school friend Susie and her husband Matt, joined us as newbies to the group.  Their start was rocky and I expected that we might lose them.  On Qatar Air, the rockets threatening Doha, meant their flights were canceled.  Rebooking on Delta they hooked up with the Minneapolis group and easily slid into the group comradery.   

BILL

Bill is a grade school friend of Andy. I met him in France when a group of us visited Andy who teaches there each fall.  One day in Grenoble Bill and I clocked 24,000 steps of museums, food, and great conversation.  Although measured and a bit cautious, I knew that he was ripe for a big adventure so it was fun to watch him let go of the reigns and enjoy the ride. 

BRIGID

A woman of steeled insight and soft leadership, Bridgid organized with the group, the greatest gift to me –  completion of the FAME laundry.  Thanks to her, we also have a full accounting of the birds we saw and Paul photographed.  Although, not her first trip to Africa, she approached every crazy part of it with fresh eyes and glee. 

SUSAN

Not a stranger to Tanzania, in 2002 Susan left her corporate job for 6 months to work at the Massai Girls School.  Her small town sensibility was at play as she retraced memories from that time.  (Although I do question her memory of stopping at the Snake Museum for beers.)   It was “the best” to watch her enthusiasm on a tour of the Rift Valley Children’s Village, one of my favorite places.

ANNIE

Our glue and navigator, she did not skip an opportunity to ensure a seamless experience.  Her respectful relationships with locals and extensive pre-planning meant that the welcome mat was out wherever we went.  Over the past 9 years Annie and I have developed a deep friendship and are active members of the FAME Fan Club.  If you ask me “Who can help me with a trip anywhere in Africa?” I will say without hesitation Aroura Africa and Annie Birch.

OUR GUIDES

Jambe, Roman, Gerald

Jambe, the HEART.  Noone loves the Serengeti and the natural history of Tanzania like Jambe.  His transfer of that love and his personal story was wonderfully heartfelt by our group.

Roman, the HEAD.  I seriously doubt that anyone found a question that Roman could not answer with authentic enthusiasm.  He will be in our heads long after our departure, as an unforgetable Tanzania image.

Gerald, the HUMOR.  As the jokester, he gave us a new “grandma ready” language.  Happy Place was toilet.  Honolulu was sex. Yummy Yummy is time to eat!  And then there was something about fruits being unique to the Y cromosome anatomy. His description of dung beetle couples was not PG rated.

ZEBRA CAMP

Although we had fine service everywhere, the Zebra Camp team, challenged by nature, was 5 star.  I still can’t believe they cook top notch meals in a tent!  And they cleaned our muddy shoes!!!

According to AI, alchemy is the power to transform things for the better, real or imagined.

Yup, that tracks!

The Itinerary

Safari Itinerary for Friends of Diane Berthel 

Day 1 –  2nd March  

The Amsterdam jet laggers arrived around 11 PM, a full 2 hours after my bed time.  Annie and our drivers met them at the airport, checked them in and briefed them on the next day’s departure time.

Day 2 –  Arusha 3rd March 

I watched as the late night travelers woke up to the beautiful grounds of Rivertrees resort, a welcome from monkeys, and a full outdoor breakfast.  Welcome to Africa!

After breakfast we headed to the town of Arusha for Cultural Heritage, home of one of the largest art galleries and shopping opportunities in Africa.  It was our most commercial day but a good introduction and soothing for jet lag. 

Andy and Mukund drummed with the Maasai.  Many of us bought Tanzanite jewelry and shopped for gifts. 

A group chatted with and had a photo taken with Jane Goodall’s granddaughter.

We then headed to Arusha Coffee Lodge for lunch and a tour of Shanga, a project that supports disabled people creating blown glass, weaving and other crafts.  Lunch was delicious.  By now it is becoming clear that good food will be good and plentiful – a theme for the trip!  And yes, we shopped more!

Another theme was rain –  the drenching and refreshing African rains.  They were the “I’m glad I brought my raincoat type!”.  They snuck up on us suddenly and left us with refreshing sunny landscapes and MUD!

After our Rivertrees dinner we had our safari briefing.   The next two weeks promised to be an adventure junkie’s dream.

Day 3 – Arusha National Park 4th March 

After an early breakfast we took a trip into Arusha National Park. A small national park, it includes the slopes, summit, and ash cone of Mt.  Meru, the Momela Lakes, Ngurdoto Crater, and the lush highland forests that blanket its lower slopes.  

This morning we met Jambe, Roman, and Gerald who will be with us until we board our plane for Zanzibar.  I asked everyone to change vehicles regularly so they would have an opportunity to get to know all of our safarians and guides.  They took it to heart and the shuffle began!

At the park we were joined by our ranger guides to take us on a hike.  I was excited that we were about to give the monkeys a bit of competition for the OOH’s and AH’s.  It was time to move on to more animals.

Warthogs welcomed us first and lined the trail to GIRAFFE. (After I fell into a thorny bush!)  This park never fails to provide a giraffe trifecta. 

I will never forget the faces as we got closer and closer!  After shockingly close selfies with them, we moved on to the waterfall and more animals.   

Picnic lunch and back in our vehicles for more giraffes (twiga in Swahili) , impala, buffalo, zebra, dik-dik and a plethora of colobus monkeys to finish our day’s adventure.  

The day provided an opportunity to get to know our fellow travelers and the exceptional  guides, who would paint the face of Tanzania for us.

The energy was just right for this adventure junkie!

Day 4  Maasai Village/Karatu 5th March 

We had an early morning departure from the beautiful Rivertrees.  Of course it was after breakfast.  We never skipped a meal!

On our long trip to Karatu we visited artist Robert Aswani.  Brigid was already in a love affair with zebra and had a cool painting sent home.   The cute couple and others found pieces to roll up in  their luggage.  My art addiction kicked in and I took home three of his laundry day paintings. 

We continued our drive to the Great Rift Valley where we visited a Maasai boma and had a fabulous lunch at Isoitok Camp, an eco-project with the local Maasai tribe. 

Lori was feeling punk and didn’t move from the vehicle.  Kim and Jean were nursing her and we all had our fingers crossed that ginger ale would do the trick. 

We continued to Karatu in the Ngorongoro Highlands where our boutique lodge, Baghayo, was walking distance to FAME (Foundation for African Medicine and Education), my second home. 

Exhausted from the day, I headed to my room, prepared for sleep and had just taken one of Dr. Frank’s “total zen” pills, when there was a panicked knock on the door.  “Lori needs to get to the hospital.  She has a temp of 104.”  Fortunately I knew a first rate hospital nearby.   The problem was the RAIN.  I located a 4 wheel drive car and driver and we headed, through the red dirt roads – turned mud – to FAME.  Annie met us at the ER, waited to ensure everyone was taken care of and to get me back to Bagyho.  The rains were so crazy it was after 1 AM before we could navigate the roads.

Straight to ER, Lori was greeted by a fine line-up of FAME care givers headed by Dr. Elibaraka.  And eagerly supported by Jean and Kim.  After labs and set up on IV Lori was admitted to the ward where she could have a private room with extra beds.  Kim left early in the morning to get some sleep.  Jean stayed – well you know the story about her bed fetish!  In morning rounds Dr. Gabrial looked at both and said “Who is the patient?”.

Day 5 – FAME/ Karatu  6th March 

Having missed Lori’s private tour, the rest of the group headed to FAME (of course after breakfast).  Saidi led us on a tour of the hospital.  The group has heard me talk about my work there for years, so they had lots of questions.  And staff had stories about me to share as they moved through.  

I worked with staff the 5 weeks prior to the safari so I had prepared them for the rockstar group of friends heading to campus.

Our group did not go unnoticed!  Founders Frank and Susan joined us for lunch at Lilac and a group of FAME Ambassadors arrived for a post lunch soda party!

Sehewa was like a kid on Christmas morning with all of the glasses the group brought for his eye clinic. He was excited to meet Bill who has a special interest in the clinic.

We also did a photo op at the location of the new laundry that I had agreed to fund.  My motivation was that while patients had grown from 29,000 annually to over 40,000, housekeeping was maintaining the same excellent standards with no dryers and limited space.   I later learned that the group was hatching a plan to fund equipment for the laundry.  ROCKSTAR HEARTS!

Susan and Rose joined us for a Bagyho dinner.  We headed to bed, for our early morning trip to the spectacular Ngorongoro Crater. 

Breakfast at 6 bags out at 6:30.

Days 6  – Ngorongoro Crater  7th March 

Today we headed off early to spend the day in the Ngorongoro Crater one of “8th Wonder of the World”, home to all of the larger African mammals with the  exception of giraffes (they can’t cope with the steep descent). Here is one of the few remaining places it’s  possible to encounter the highly endangered black rhino. 

And we saw them all, elephants, lions, hippo, a resident herd of wildebeest, zebra, various gazelles,  baboons and more  birds.  Paul was photographing every bird and Brigid was tracking them in our animal count book. Thank you Brigid!

Notice she put Gerald, Roman and Jambee under OTHER SIGHTINGS🤣

This day was so great.  As we descended into the crater and got our first view of zebra and wildebeest , hundreds of feet away, the vehicles were stopped….click click click….knowing that we could get close enough to brush their teeth I suggested that we move on.  Within minutes our vehicle was stopped by lazy zebras, wildebeests and impalas crossing.  And it began.  It was clear, my challenge for the animals of Tanzania to charm my friends had been accepted.  From beginning to end of this trip, animals were a talented improv theatre, acting out every scenario of nature with skill.

Our lunch was at the hippo lake where we photographed dental work of the ugly beasts when they surfaced for air.  After a quick walk to the coffee van for a delicious cappuccino, black rhino and hippo out of water (REALLY?) guided us out of the crater and on to the beautiful Plantation lodge. 

Oh, did I mention it was raining.  Thankfully every place we stayed had large umbrellas at every corner.  Nice touch.

Days –  The Highlands 8th March

It is hard to get enough of the beautiful gardens and good food at Plantation, but for the 7 heading to Lake Eyasi at 5:30 AM an early night was warranted.  They would be hunting with the Hadzabe and visiting the Datoga tribes.   I asked the group to take shillings to buy bling the tribes’ women sell.  I was so jealous when they returned with arms full of bracelets.

It was breaking my heart, but I chose the Rift Valley Children’s Village option.  Having done the Lake Eyasi trip multiple times, I was eager to show off the Village, where I have also been volunteering.  Susan was especially interested due to her work at the Massi Girl’s School in 2002.  Lori, Jean and Susan accompanied me up the bumpy massage road for a sunny tour of this amazing place.  

Rift Valley Children’s Village

The third option was a day free for leisure, to relax around the pool or enjoy a spa treatment.  Matt and Susie took advantage and were clearly the most relaxed at our pre-dinner celebration in the wine cellar.  

Days 8 – 11 Southern Serengeti/ Ndutu 9th – 12th March 

WILDLIFE GALORE!  We are headed to Ndutu, the Southern Serengeti! 

On our way, we made a museum stop at Oldupai Gorge, the site of years of research into the anthropology of early man by the Leakey family and prominent universities. 

After a robust lunch (nope haven’t missed a meal), we continue and take a quick stop at the gate for photos and then on to Zebra Camp.  We will spend the next four days exploring the varied eco-systems of Ndutu from here. The invitation for animals to charm us had reached the camp.  We were greeted everywhere by zebras and with their giraffe buddies, they littered the path to our tents. 

Our tents were all located on Lion Avenue, mine was number 6.  Spacious with toilets and hot showers (turn down service) we were glamping.  

It was clear that this was no ordinary camping trip when we tasted the soup and fabulous dinner and wine of our choice.  It was preceded by happy hour at the bush TV (camp fire overlooking the Serengeti).  We were served drinks of our choice and hot samosas.  ETC…..everynight the same great soup, dinner and happy hour.  Also for breakfast, eggs of your choice, fresh fruit, warm bread.  Lunch equally as good.  It’s my second time at zebra camp.  Again, I look suspiciously at the small kitchen tent and wonder if it is the wardrobe to Narnia?

Then there was the midnight Twiga visit.  I was woken by a loud slurping to see her chomping away on my bush directly in front of my door.  Not unusual, I always keep my flaps up to greet night visitors, but she seemed other worldly.  By the time I registered the scene she was off.  Did I dream that?  Nope, soon I heard her going to town on the bush next door. 

Brigid, are you seeing this? SNAP, SNAP, SNAP Susan, was that real?

Yes, we are up early the next morning for breakfast where the Tiwga story was circulating with “tonight we are leaving our flaps down”!  The animals are charming but don’t like to be taken for granted, so they didn’t return the next night….awww.  

Off early!  The animal itinerary is playful with charming mornings,  head for cover from midday sun (time for us to get lunch), and then cool afternoon hunting dances depending on hunters and hunted.   We have been told by our guides that there is ample food because of the rains. 

We see post hunting scavengers but no take downs.  Ok with me.  They can be a sad affair if you are attached to the little victims.  The predators are sleek and beautiful but not sympathetic.

Hot Air Balloon

Serengeti day 3, most of the group gets a VERY early morning coffee-to-go for an hour plus ride to our hot air balloon.  It’s early because we will rise up over the Serengi with the morning sun.  The sun is muted but we are able to view the grandeur and animal movement below and touch down just before the rains begin. 

Transported to an English Breakfast, we stand in line for a “loo with a view” and sit down to eat.  By now our shoes are no longer visible through the mud.

We meet up with the rest of our group at the airport and finish the morning drive. 

Jambe leads us to a valley where we are able to get out of the car and set a new record for selfies.  Brigid is giving me selfie lessons and there has been SOME improvement.  Our return to lunch is lion heavy.  

A bit of rest then off to our last afternoon in this beautiful place.  We track a mother leopard on the hunt with her two offspring in training.  It is clear the long wait is not going to end in a kill so we head back to camp.

The Serengeti is not ready to let us go.   We encounter a highly entertaining family of elephants auditioning for Cirque du Sole.   Finally we tear ourselves away only to trip over little lions playing and their – not so responsible – adult supervisor nearby.  Hard to leave, we force ourselves to ……wait no, not a leopard in a tree!  

Well that was an uber satisfying end to our drives and OMG somebody cleaned our shoes!!!  

Our final dinner is delicious topped off by the staff singing our favorite Jambo song while dancing with pots and pans!  They presented me with a cake so, in the Tanzanian tradition, I could cut and serve to all.  We did heartfelt thanks and I outed our shoe cleaner for special thanks.

Day 12 – Arusha  13th March 

Breakfast at 7 bags out at 7:30, we are heading to the bush airport for a flight that will not be on time – but you never know!  Arriving back at Rivertrees we reunite with luggage and get ready for a good-bye dinner with Andy who is heading back to France.  

Prior to dinner we meet for our Zanzibar briefing.  During the briefing, Brigid announced that the group had been working with FAME to fund the completion of the laundry.  I was shocked and overwhelmed with gratitude!  How did I miss this?  I can’t wait to take a framed photo of the group, to hang in the folding room, when I return next year.

 Day 13 – Zanzibar 14th March 

At Kilimanjaro International Airport, we board a flight to Zanzibar, the Spice Island of East Africa.  We left Andy at Rivertrees, where we picked up Barb from FAME.  

An archipelago, we stayed at an ocean front resort on the island of Unguja.  We arrived, settled in and found our way to one of several afternoon beach themed activities.  I walked while young Massai men, from the mainland, chatted about the goods they were selling.   Complementing my swahili, they totally ruined their credibility!  

Food was plentiful and I dove into fresh fish for our dinner.

Day 14  – East Coast Zanzibar 15th March 

Day two we continued to live the lazy beach life.  Several settled under beach umbrellas.  I joined the beach walk.   My months in Africa resulted in a nice farmer tan.  But my virgin shoulders were not happy with the Zanzibar sun

Who is walking on water?

Day 15 – East Coast Zanzibar 16th March 

Done with the lazy beach life, a group booked the dolphin watch boat ride.  Paul, Brigid,  and I went snorkeling. 

Smita, Mukund, Susan, Lori, Jean and Kim had a different experience than expected.  It was an old wooden fishing boat.  The coral reef was crawling with snorkelers and not so many dolphins.  An early return meant the tide was out so there was an unexpected walk.  But the day was as beautiful as it gets.  And the walk produced photos hot enough for the over-60 Sports Illustrated swimsuit addition.

In the meantime, Brigid, Paul, and I owned the reef and made friends with every beautiful creature.  We came in late enough that the tide delivered us to the steps of the resort who housed the snorkeling business..  Charmed by our morning, we treated ourselves to lunch at the cool resort. 

Day 16 – Stone Town Zanzibar 17th March 

We stopped for a Spice Tour on the way to Stone Town.  Relieved of our ocean breeze, we were becoming conditioned to the humidity of Zanzibar.

After checking into our cool old hotel we split into two groups for a guided tour of Stone Town.   It covered the history and politics of this island off the coast of Tanzania where the slave trade, spices and relationship to the mainland, make it anything but dull.

The tour ended with a roof top dinner at  Emerson Spice Hotel with their tasting menu in seven servings. 

Day 17 – International Flight Home 18th March 

Most of the group had late night flights – 11 PM.  

Plenty of time for a full day of shopping meant, everywhere in town were familiar faces.  Kim’s search for the perfect Tanzanite was satisfied and supporting shoppers caved buying more jewelry. 

Brigid, Susan, and I broke off to see the slave museum (soooo sad) where we ran into Paul, Andy, Bill, and Mukund (more long faces).

Bill was not leaving Zanzibar without a stop at the Freddy Mercury house.

African skirts, dresses and gifts to fit in luggage……

I was staying an extra day so I had to get my goodbye hugs in the hotel lobby.  After all left, Annie and I walked to her favorite Ethiopian restaurant for finger food and a debrief.  

I felt sad – isfied.  I came to Tanzania in January.  A lot had happened.  Work at FAME and the Children’s Village plus a fabulous vacation with friends.  

It felt empty without the energy of the group.  But I was ready to go home and I knew that my friends had gotten the best of what Tanzania offers.

Thank you Annie for being the glue and thank you Jambe, Roman, and Gerald for being the glitter!

Spectacular Serengeti

I arrived in Tanzania on January 15 and have been working non-stop since then.  Now on a break in the Serengeti! Soon I will have time to record the wonder of the last few weeks.

But first. The Serengeti!

I’m in CAT COUNTRY!

SUNDAY

Anderson is my guide and right-hand man at Namiri Plains, a decadent oasis in the Serengeti.    He collected me at 6:30 AM.   Thinking “I’m on vacation, why am I setting my alarm?” I once again trusted the Universe and wow did it deliver.  Setting off with a pre-dawn chill and ethereal morning light we headed to the bush. 

Ten minutes in, a mama cheetah with her three romping tweens, put on a show.  We quietly followed them knowing mama was on the lookout for breakfast.  Her stalking skills, although impressive, were not adequate to get the two nearby gazelle. 

Eagle eye Anderson noticed another mom with a cub, so we parked a few feet away and witnessed a plethora of feline affection.   

But nature will be nature, and it was time to eat.  On my many safaris I have watched cats devourer a kill but never the kill.  Eagle eye spotted a romping heard of gazelle, so we moved near them to quietly observe the unfolding of nature.  Mom sleekly moved unnoticed through the bush until a member of the heard spotted her and yelled “run”.   And they did.  You know the story.  The sleek mom flew through the air and captured the slowest runner.  Pole sana, she was a sweet young thing!

Now that she had here price she called for the little one.

Her kill came with a price.  She laid nearby to recover, her lungs heaving.  It was clear she would need recovery time, so Anderson made fabulous coffee and we ate breakfast.  The cub, still with baby teeth, dragged the gazelle around trying to get a bite. 

At the first sign of red lips, we headed for camp encountering a beautiful white eagle in a showoff flight. 

From a beautiful sunrise to the cheetah shows, nature had delivered a pretty spectacular Sunday morning!

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

Recoup with a great lunch and head out for a late afternoon check on nature.  Looking for lions we first encountered one old man giraffe with a slight posture problem.  Oh wait no!  There were seventeen.  Like super models they swayed in and out of view.  Nice show.

On to the lions, we found a mom and 3 little ones huddled around their dinner, an unfortunate warthog.  The lions were too hot to eat so we moved on to a cheetah who was a more active dinner seeker. 

Hanging out near the gazelle heard, where we expected cheetah action. Then we noticed she was dawdling with babies in tow.  

By now OUR dinner was more important. 

We managed a quick check-in on the lions.  While the little ones were dining on warthog mom put her feet up,  obviously exhausted from taking down a warthog and dealing three kids. 

Satisfied with the day’s shows we headed off to an early dinner.  I had a 4 AM wakeup call coming.

MONDAY

4 AM is early but wakeup came with a smile and pot of French press coffee.  How can that be?  Service here is 10 star and always with a smile.

An early morning 90 minute drive was on the bush highway.  Sometime road and sometimes not.  Always natural speed bumps.  My drivers kept me entertained and guided me through the morning adventure.

The reward, a sunrise safari in a hot air balloon, was so worth it.  I didn’t take many photos because it is so Zen floating above the beauty.

The exception is the disgusting smell and behavior of hippos!

On the long drive back to the camp I was too tired for an afternoon drive so opted for a nap before dinner.

TUESDAY

Today is my last full day.  Eagle eye and I headed out at 6:30 AM.  No longer considered early.  Beautiful sunrise, freshest breeze and male lions patrolling the perimeter of the camp.  They were clearly the boss. 

The next half hour we moved through a path of giraffe and gazelle to a male cheetah.  He had not missed a meal, so no action.   

After a breakfast with great coffee we continued on.  Thinking I could conjure up anything I wanted I said “hmmm we haven’t seen a leopard.  Eagle eye said “ok, we will find one”.  Within 10 minutes we were following a fine looking male leopard.  He put on a show in and out of two trees.  The first is where he stored his half eaten kill.  So dinner was waiting, when he needed it. 

After a morning of male cats we found another mom cheetah with two little cutie kitties. 

Tonight a walking safari!  Hamna shida, I have armed guides.

Another beautiful morning but just enough time to get to the airport for my late morning flight. As I was leaving a representative from our camp’s pride of lions came to bid me farewell!

Thanks to Zwadi who’s humor and care were a gift!

Pure Patagonia

Finding a way to describe this journey is a challenge. 

I feel like a mountain of experience is trying to squeeze through a tiny hole of perception.  Patagonia has reset my meter for beauty.   More than what you see: it is the alchemy that occurs when, what you see, blends with drinking in the pure air and water from the river streams.  Often hiking alone in the forest, the sounds are the essence of comfort.  Then there are the winds, so demanding that they stop you in your tracks. 

 It is impossible to simply see Patagonia.  It demands that you experience it with all of your senses.  A zig zag between Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is a wonder of nature, and our only job was to walk it in gratitude.

My plan is to take this blog on our day-by-day journey.  For backdrop let’s start with the people, where the chemistry of the group matched the grandeur of the experience.

Part One – The People

First my friend Paul.  We met in grad school, 30 years ago.  This trip was to celebrate his longtime coming retirement.  He brought his big camera on our long hikes and unapologetically stopped to capture every angle through his lens.  The daily extra weight was impressive.  It was a clear signal that I could snap people pictures with my iPhone and meditate on the scenery, while Paul documented the trip.  It is important to recognize that he did every mile of the trip with that camera!  

Paul initially felt left out, as our two fellow hikers were young women.  It didn’t take long for us three independent women to connect.  Sydney labeled us the Bad Ass Bitches, then Babes, and in time, any other adjective beginning with B that reflected our independent spirits.

Paul eventually understood that, although not a Babe, he was treasured for his scowls and methodical approach to a conversation.  We all teased him and he took it with good humor.

On our flight to Chile, Paul and I speculated about the two women joining us.  Did they know each other?  Were they a couple?  Age?  Would they be super-duper hikers?  On our first day’s six-hour drive, all questions were answered and boy did we hit the jackpot!  Never having met each other, Kate from New York and Sydney from LA were two beautiful (inside and out) little mountain goats.  They could scramble up a mile of boulders without breaking a sweat and with complete humility.  But best of all they were wonderful to hang out with.  Conversations were never dull or without humor.  They teased Paul and passed out sage advice to him about his girlfriend.  Each are successful in their career and very connected to family with strong mothers my age!  I loved that they told their mothers about me.  Whenever, I struggled they would remind me that most women my age would never attempt this venture.

There is no question that the four of us will be friends for life!

Kate, Me, Sydney & Paul

It would be criminal for me to let you believe that we made this journey without help.  Not only were the team, who supported us, highly competent but they easily blended in with our little family of hikers. 

Ro (Rodrigo) our leader, was with us the full 13 days.  Chilean, he has been leading hiking, skiing, and climbing adventures for more than 15 years and it shows.  No detail escaped his attention.  He made sure that our only job was experiencing Patagonia.  You will see later in the day-to-day description how important his support was to my hikes after I injured my knee.  Ro shared all meals with us and conversations about his family experience in Chile, during the Pinochet dictatorship, were fascinating.  Dad of a 16-year-old, he is kind, thoughtful and was – oh so – responsive to our needs.

Claudia was our assistant guide during our time in Chile.  She was a full member of the BABs.  Independent is her middle name.  Last year she won the Chilean free style ski competition.  She spent years as a ski instructor in Switzerland and has been guiding for as many.  She was not only a guide on the W Trek (more to come) but also a porter, carrying 2 times her body weight in gear!

Lucho, assistant guide on our long hikes in Argentina, is a hiking and skiing guide and a serious climber.  I was entertained by the stories of he and Ro hiking up 5 hours to ski down – no chair lift needed.  Tales about climbing the majestic peaks in our view, were downright scary.   Lucho taught me new techniques for my iPhone 15 camera.  His photos are amazing.  Married with 2 young sons, they are a family that climbs together.

Claudio was our assistant guide on the first two hikes in Argentina and prior to reaching Mount Fitz Roy area.  He and Ro have been guiding together for years and are good friends, as evidenced by this photo.

Gratitude to our porters and cooks on the W Trek, Luis and Miguel.  

Edwardo, our driver in Argentina and master of attention, met us at the Grey Lake boat and stayed with us until the end.    I swear that he reads minds.  Bags magically appeared and disappeared at exactly the right time.  Every lost item ended up in my hotel room.  When we returned from a hike, chips and beers met us at the back of the van.  He was never without a smile.

Part Two – The Path

After our day long drive, we checked into a lodge with comfy beds, good food and wine.  Our first briefing for the next day hike included the trail, what we should wear (LAYERS) and most important – what goes in your backpack.  You hear two things about Patagonia 1) the weather changes every 5 minutes and 2) the wind can take you to your knees.  Both are true!  Late fall there, so every day is a down jacket day.  In addition to lunch and snacks, backpack must haves included rain pants and jacket, stocking and baseball caps, neck gator, warm gloves, hiking poles, extra fleece plus any additional gear you couldn’t resist buying before the trip.  Kate’s gloves had battery powered heaters!  Everything was used at least once. 

I am blessed with good vacation weather karma.  We had a bit of rain and snow but most of our trip was beautiful sunshine casting red shadows over the mountains in the morning and sprinkling afternoon mountain peaks with glitter.

 Hike #1 selfie. 

Let’s go!

First hike 11.5 miles to Torres Del Paine

Miles of stunning river, valleys, forest distracted me from the fact that my training for this trip was not adequate.  But the last mile, I came face to face with a steep boulder field that screamed “back off old woman”.  The little mountain goats were already eating an early lunch at the towers with Claudia, and Paul had at least 50 photos.  I was worried about slowing Paul and Ro down.  But Ro was having none of my thoughts about skipping the last part.  He took my backpack and carried two to the top.  A couple things were clear to me at this point.  1) Ro would be part of the magic of Patagonia and 2) I need a better day pack for my next hike!

We made it! Torres Del Paine, the towers!!!  My lesson for the trip – keep going the rewards are endless. 

Lunch and water to replenish and I’m excited about my newfound energy.  Too excited to watch where I was going, I fell hard on to a boulder with the impact to the knee that was replaced 10 years ago.  DAM……. We retraced our steps the few miles back to our lodge.  I’m accident prone so am good at pretending there is no pain.  But when Ro and I looked at my swollen black and blue kneed there was no pretending. 

After dinner Ro had the talk with me.  “The W Trek has no out.  For the next few days we hike through with no loops.  We could leave you behind and connect in Argentina.  What do you think?”   Never ….. I promised him that in the first mile I would turn back if I couldn’t do it. I knew I could deal with the pain and hoped I would not further damage my knee.  Spoiler alert: yesterday I saw the ortho doctor who said I bruised my kneecap and bruised bones hurt for a few weeks but keep hiking!  I am one lucky woman! 

Already, I knew that this would slow me down but MT Sobek – fabulous – has two guides for that purpose.   This was one of the toughest days with a bum knee so I had the confidence to continue, knowing the group could speed ahead at any time.   And they did, the two beauties were a full hour ahead of us for the day.  My hiking companions for the remainder of our adventure were sometimes Paul, always a fabulous guide, my little buddy pain, and my contentious relationship with boulders.

As would become our pattern, we spent the evening exchanging robust dinner conversation and airdropping photos.  Always a fitting end to a perfect Patagonia day!

Second hike – 8 miles Cuernos del Paine

Paine is not pain; the Spanish translation is “blue”.  Yesterday the towers of blue and today the horns of blue.  In every photo I post, you will see how blue is used to describe the stunning peaks.

This day followed the Paso Los Cuernos trail to the bluest lakes and a tapestry of greens and browns on the shores.  We are crossing rivers on suspension bridges and filling our water bottles from river streams.  Kate joined Paul with a big camera, and both were finding endless opportunities for grand photos.

Late morning our group separated.  While the speedsters went ahead Claudia (my guide for the day) and I chatted about life, its challenges, and its joys!  A strong wind joined us for lunch and ran off with part of my sandwich. 

Later in the afternoon we rejoined our group and hiked down to our little cabins next to a waterfall.  They were closed for the season (late fall) so we were alone, each cabin had a welcome pot belly stove to keep us warm, except on our trip to shower and middle of the night bano visits. 

Luis and Miguel passed us on the trail carrying our food, equipment and small stuff sacks with our toothbrush and overnight necessities for 4 days on the W.  We joined them in the little lodge where Luis had cooked a nice dinner served with wine.  WHAT…. they carried wine for us!!!!

Third hike – 11 miles to the French Valley or 15 miles up the valley

There is no guessing which option I chose.  While Paul, Sydney, and Kate headed off to the higher point, Claudia and I walked the splendor of the W.  I’m so grateful that I did not miss these glaciers, valleys, lakes, and peaks. 

Late afternoon we arrived at Refugio Paine Grande, just ahead of the wind and rain.  I took a quick shower, ADVIL and crawled under my comforter for a quick nap.  No heat in the Refugio rooms.  This respite reset my idea of chilly luxury and mitigated the pain in my knee.   I then joined Claudia in a private room with a roaring fire, beers, and snacks. 

Outside it was dark, windy and LOTS of rain.  Our team was out there with hours to go!  Around 6:30 PM they arrived, wet, cold, and totally high from their feat.  I was in awe!  They took to the warm cozy room like ducks to water.   We did not carry extra clothing on the W.  All wet layers were strewn around the room in the hopes they would dry for the next day’s hikes. 

The Refugio is a dormitory, so we shared the hallways with more than a hundred hikers.   Sleep came a bit later than in our cozy cabins but eventually hikers (no matter their age) need rest.

Fourth hike – 7.5 miles to catch a catamaran to Lago Grey

Up early to do the 7.5 mile hike for the 1 PM boat to Grey Lake.  All clothing from the previous hike was dry and the rain had stopped.  But 80 mile an hour winds had put us to sleep.  The weather channel’s promise of slowing winds lacked accuracy.  Our plan – push against the winds to the 1 PM boat.  If the boat can’t get through the wind, hike back for the 6 PM boat from the Refugio. 

Ro checked the boats progress throughout the morning, and we continued.  The wind was a crazy dance partner, but we had our fingers crossed that the dying winds forecast would materialize.  About two thirds of the way Ro got word that the boat had turned around.  We would too. 

But first, ensuring that we experience all of Patagonia, Ro took us to an outlook to meet 45 – 50 MPH winds.  What a ride getting to the top!!!!

It is important to stop here to remind you that no amount of knee pain or weather challenge could alter that each step we took, on this entire trip, was drenched in beauty.

Got it? Good now we can go on. 

We returned to the Refugio and reclaimed our warm room, but the sun and beauty of the lake were way more inviting.  Ro asked if anyone wanted to repeat the end of the previous day’s hike.   There was time and our later group came in when it was dark, missing stunning views.  Sydney’s and Kate’s eyes lit up and off they went to retrace a chunk of the previous day.  I think you are now seeing that I don’t exaggerate when I call them the beautiful little mountain goats!

Around 5 PM we all headed to the dock ensuring that we were in front of the line to board the first boat.  We were not the only ones to miss the early transport.  Starting to feel a little melancholy, our transfer from Chile to Argentina meant the lovely Claudia would leave us. Especially me.  She was my Rock!   As we stamped our feet to stay warm, we did final group selfies with Claudia. 

Wonderful Edwardo collected us at the Gray Lake dock and stayed with us the remainder of our trip!  He was a treasure with the sweetest smile.

The wind delays meant we arrived at our Hotel Lago Grey in time for a late dinner.  There were long faces as we reunited with the clean clothing from our suitcases in a beautiful warm room – but no time to enjoy.   YES, we had an early morning breakfast and then off to avoid the crowds at the border into Argentina. 

Drive to El Calafate

Goodbye Chile!  Goodbye W!  So sad, how can Argentina ever measure up? 

We crossed the border in record time.  I was missing Chile.  It didn’t help that we landed in a nice hotel in a charming town, El Calafate, which is the gateway to Moreno Glacier.  This was the hotel and glacier from my stop here on the way to Antarctica in 2017.  Like a spoiled two year old, I just wanted NATURE! 

Well, sometimes we get what we need, not what we want.  Later I would find that the majesty of Argentina and Chile are first cousins.  In the meantime, I got a nice little respite that included clean laundry, a warm bed, a bit of a rest for my knee, and a fabulous day at the glacier!

Fifth hike – 2 miles around Perito Moreno glacier

Ok, so the glacier is beyond amazing!  The walk was leisurely in light rain.  The bright blues of the glacier require sunglasses on a cloudy day.  Parts of the glacier continually dropped from their perch to demand your attention.  Not as remote as we had been in previous days, it was other worldly.

We headed in for a lunch overlooking the glacier.  The fabulous food and wines rocked.  Laughter and camaraderie flowed!  Claudio was our stand-up comedian.  It was a family affair. 

Claudio….run!

No planned dinner.  Paul and I headed out to find a gift for his girlfriend and found Kate for a “fancy” meal before we head back to nature.

Sixth hike – 1 1/2 miles overlook at El Chalten

Another driving day as we head to Fitzroy and Cerro Torre ranges. We stop at the coolest little brewery in El Chalten for lunch.     Then on to a short hike up to a scenic lookout.  We finished our drive at Laguana Condor Cabanas.  A quick check into the most amazing main lodge, where we will do everything but sleep over the next two days. 

Given our keys we go off to assigned cabins where, thanks to our magician Edwardo, our bags are there.

We don’t spend much time in our barely heated cabins when the lodge offers mega charm, a warm fire, wine, and treats.  Paul found his way to the “extremely hot” outdoor hot tub and the beauties suggested a lobster alert. 

Seventh hike – 11 miles Rio Electrico Valley

Edwardo dropped us at a bridge where the trail head started, and the sun cast a red sheen over the mountains.  It was a totally cool invitation to the day.  We walked into a beautiful forest and rippled through gentle hills with beautiful fall-colored trees and sun sneaking through to light the path.  Ro and the beauties were off to a lake that extended the hike.  It was a beautiful day why not follow! 

Mount Fitz Roy was playing hide and seek behind the clouds and the open valley was an opportunity to snap my first photo of its north face.    

Better yet Paul and Lucho (both fabulous photographers) were hiking with me.  Out of the forest along the river, we got several shots of a hazy Fritz Roy – lovely.  Then BAM we came face to face with a boulder field on our path to the lake.  From the beginning of the W, I had a pact with my knee.  I could ignore the pain, only if I respected its hostile relationship with boulders.  Paul wanted the lake, but I could only make it halfway through the boulders.  So sorry Paul.  We learned later that no one got all the way as there was an issue with the path.

We all convened at a little mountain hut to eat our lunch and share stories.  By now we were all fully formed, for life, friends.  Lucho and Ro treated us to coffee and tea.  Who knew a tomato cheese sandwich with a little coffee could taste so good? 

After our lunch break my knee rewarded me for the morning compromise.  Full of energy I bounded out in front of the group and finished first (only time) for the day.  Waiting at the bridge was a warm smiling Edwardo who had set out chips and beer.   Kate was teaching me to take selfies, allowing me to capture the pleasure of the group when they discovered Edwardo’s makeshift pub.

We headed back to our cabins for a quick shower and then on to our little lodge of bliss.

Pre-dinner Airdrop activity ensued in front of a roaring fire, bottle of wine and a charcuterie board that could only be found in the meat capital of the world.  Sydney schooled Paul on WhatsApp and other tech things.  Ro did his daily doctoring – Kate’s ankle strain, my knee and my toe blister he was keeping at bay.

A fabulous dinner of Lamb and off to our cabins for cold noses and a warm comforter.  From our cabins and the Refugio in the W, we learned to sleep with the clothes we would wear the next day to avoid freezing long underwear.

Eighth hike – 13.5 miles via Laguna Capri to El Chalten

A beautiful snow met us on our short walk to the van where Edwardo collected us for a transfer back to the bridge at the trail head.  It was other worldly.    The same red lit mountains welcomed us to a slightly different trail. 

Lucho was stuck with me for the day.  It was wonderful having his stories as we climbed through the forest to come nose to nose with the cousin peaks Fitz Roy, Saint Exupery and Poincenot.

All were loving connected by a jewel of a glacier.  Over our lunch I bullied Lucho into showing photos from his climb to Poincenot.  I will never forget the rush of imaging the climb to reach it. 

We climbed, then zigzagged through a field of buff balled red and yellow bushes and clear streams. 

Lucho gave me a lesson on how to capture the grandeur of Patagonia with my iPhone.  In the beginning we established that you cannot see it but must experience it with all of your senses.   That never changed.  No matter how good the photos or my descriptions, the real gift is how you feel.

 The rest of the group found a higher, even more majestic, lookout with snow.  They made a snow bunny that they named Diane.  Aww…. 

Having skipped the higher lookout, we tumbled into El Chalten ahead of the group.  Well, I tumbled, Lucho sauntered!  And who should appear?  Yes, Edwardo!  He took us to a lovely hotel where all little items, I had carelessly tossed around, were in my room!  See I told you that he practiced magic!

I grabbed a beer and greeted the hikers for post airdropping.   After showers and a briefing for our final hike, we headed to a restaurant that specialized in red meat.  I think that is an oxymoron in Argentina.  There is only red meat!  Sydney treated us to Tequila shots appropriately paired with the meat.

Ninth hike – 11 miles to Laguna Torre – 6.5 for me

I woke to a leg screaming in pain.  For the first time I wondered if I was doing permanent damage.   My knee was having no part of my negotiation to do this one final hike.  I needed reinforcement so headed down early for breakfast, where I knew I would find Ro.  To my surprise, the never early, Paul was with him.  I shed some tears into my coffee.  Paul was compassionate and supportive.  Ro, as always, said the magic words “you can do it”.  As it was an in and out, hike he said we will go until you can’t continue, then turn around. 

I did not make it to the lake but navigated a couple of boulder climbs to the second outlook at the face of Cerro Torre, possibly one of the most stunning views on the planet. 

Ro and I had a two-hour lunch discussing history, philosophy, family and more before heading down.  I will forever be grateful.  Without his emotional and physical care Patagonia would have been lost to me.

After depositing me at the trail end, he scrambled back up to do the last mile with the group.  Not long after, I heard them coming down the road to collect me for our traditional “day end” selfie.  Watching them, I knew that I would always carry their spirit from this experience we shared.  It was now part of my DNA.